獨立攀登者與攀登路上的進展

DEA 1977

因為和學校合作攀岩課程的緣故,做了一份課綱。覺得也許會對一些讀者有幫助,所以就放上來自己的網站上了。很抱歉偷個懶沒有完全中文化。有些部份也許也寫得頗為簡略。此外,課程元素的系統技術部份,基本上也會是小Po新版的《傳統攀登》的大綱。

Butterfly, Wild Iris, WY

Butterfly, Wild Iris, WY

【Course Goals|課程目標】
※※ Become a self-sufficient climber and know how to progress in climbing ※※
※※ 成為獨立攀岩者,了解如何在攀岩路上進展 ※※

1. Know how to manage risks in different climbing scenarios | 不同攀岩情況的風險管理
2. Know how to set up a plan to progress in climbing | 設定攀岩進展的訓練計畫
3. Be able to take a beginner or a less-experienced climber on a self-researched outing | 自我設定攀岩計畫,能帶領經驗較少的攀岩者
4. Understand the climbing areas and ethics | 理解攀登區域和倫理

DEA450

【Course Components|課程元素】
1. Movements and Body Training | 動作以及身體訓練
2. Technical Skills | 系統技術
3. Mental Aspects | 心理訓練

DEA155
1. Movements and Body Training

  1. Prepare the body – injury prevention, proper warm-up, mobility drills, strength training
  2. Climbing movement drills
  3. Face climbing holds and body positions
  4. Crack climbing techniques

2. Technical Skills
◎ Basic rope management – coil, stack, rope bag
◎ Basic knots
◎ What is top-rope and how to belay and lower a top-rope climber

  1. Ground anchor discussion
  2. Methods to add friction
  3. Understand different belay devices
  4. How to close a top-rope system

◎ Cleaning a top-rope anchor

  1. Lower
  2. Rappel
    1. Rappel device extension
    2. The third hand
    3. Firefighter belay
    4. Close a rappel system

◎ Protections

  1. Natural pros – how to find them and use them
  2. Removable pros
  3. Fixed pros

◎ Anchor

  1. What is anchor?
  2. Different types of anchor? (Requirements and applications)
  3. How to build a good anchor
  4. Different ways to connect pros to build an anchor
  5. Special case considerations

◎ Set up a top rope via hiking to the top

  1. Understand the fall line
  2. Location of the master point
  3. Protect ourselves from the edge
  4. Should we pad the lip? And how?
  5. Do we need directionals? Why?

◎ Lead

  1. Understand leader’s fall (trajectory and impact)
  2. How to clip the rope into pieces
  3. Relative positions of body and rope
  4. The role of the first piece of pro
  5. Why and when do we extend pieces
  6. Belay a leader
    1. Understand how a leader’s fall affects the climbing system
    2. Proper belay stance
    3. Smooth rope handling
    4. Dynamic catch
    5. Different belay devices
  7. Belay a follower from the top
    1. Different belay devices with special concerns
    2. Guide mode versus Re-direct
    3. Concerns on lowering
    4. Anchor location selection – do we need to extend it?
    5. Pre-configure lowering
  8. Protect the follower – think about the follower’s different fall trajectory
  9. Preparation and in route gear strategy – racking, gear inventory, anticipation

◎ Multi-pitching (2-person team)

  1. Be a competent follower
  2. Multi-pitching procedure and communication
  3. Rope management and efficient transition
  4. When to break down pitches? Concerns?
  5. Manage approach and descent – protect less than 5th class terrain
  6. How to select a multi-pitch climb and have a plan
    1. How to read a guidebook and a topo map?
    2. What to bring? Do we need another rope for rappel?
    3. Time management
    4. Sun exposure and other weather concerns
    5. What if we need to bail?

◎ Advanced Multi-pitching

  1. Get ready physically and mentally to climb longer routes – Grade III & IV
  2. How to climb in a 3-person team – caterpillar, parallel, end roping?
  3. Rope management as a 3-person team
  4. Transitions – examples: caterpillar to parallel, parallel to lower, caterpillar to rappel etc
  5. Avoid factor 2 – clip the anchor as the first piece? Fixed point belay? Other ways?

◎ Vertical Rescue

  1. Basic concept – load transfer
  2. Knots and hitches (MMO, PMMO etc)
  3. Belay escape
  4. Counterbalance Rappel
  5. Tandem Rappel
  6. Rope Ascension
  7. Hauling (different mechanical advantage)
  8. Knot Passing
  9. Scenarios – rescue a leader, rescue a follower etc

◎ Big Wall System

  1. Aid climbing
    1. Basics – gear, rating, efficiency and rhythm, standard procedure
    2. Lead less than vertical terrain
    3. Lead overhanging terrain
    4. Safely set up a fixed line
    5. Bounce test
    6. Top-stepping
    7. Lead a tension traverse and a pendulum
    8. Pro management – make sure the follower can clean all pros
    9. Other gear – pitons, hooks, cam hooks etc
    10. Ethics – clean aid as much as possible, soft rock
  2. Following
    1. Gear intro and set up
    2. Ascend a rope, less than vertical
    3. Ascend a rope, overhanging
    4. Clean a traverse and overhanging terrain – re-aid or pass the jumar?
    5. Clean a pendulum
  3. Hauling
    1. Pack and set up a haul bag (knots, device, docking line etc)
    2. How to haul
    3. Tie off a haul bag at the belay
    4. Rappel with a haul bag
  4. Misc
    1. Anchor and rope management
    2. Communication
    3. Bathroom on the wall
    4. Sleeping on the wall
    5. Strategies

3. Mental Aspects

  1. Proper breathing techniques
  2. Mindfulness with injury prevention
  3. Visualization practice
  4. Fear management (learn how to distinguish rear danger versus perceived danger)
  5. Falling practice
  6. Risk assessment (learn how to read and learn from accident reports)
  7. Nature connections, LNT, and other ethics

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>

台灣女孩. Chick From Taiwan

我是本站的作者,易思婷,土生土長的台灣女孩。在台灣,朋友大多叫我小Po,在美國,小名婷婷倒是被叫得比較響。從競爭激烈的台灣教育體系,到美國博士班的歷練,二十多年的學校生涯,一點都沒有馴服、反倒是磨亮了我的冒險本質。我有夢想,築夢踏實:這一輩子,我要活得有聲有色。而這個網站,記錄我的求知和探險,是個累積快樂的地方。「台灣女孩」的臉書粉絲頁

《睡在懸崖上的人》新版

這是我的第一本書,2012年出版,在2017年能夠再版,實在是非常開心。五年後再看這本書,自然覺得當年文字青澀,但是情感很真,故事誠實,而裡頭描寫到我相信的原則依舊不變。推薦給大家。在博客來購買本書。

《我的露營車探險》

2016年11月出版的《我的露營車探險》講述了我和先生Dave Anderson,四年多來住在親手打造的露營車Magic,遊遍美西絕美荒野的故事和領悟。只要學會分辨「想要」與「需要」,「天地為家」便是生活,不是夢想。在博客來購買本書。本書影片

《傳統攀登》

2014年7月出版。我的第二本攀岩工具書,也是中文世界第一本針對該主題的專書。從淺入深系統化地講解傳攀:置放岩楔、架設固定點、多繩距攀登、自我救援等。每個主題下,說明該主題的理論基礎,再示範目前主流的一種到多種作法。在博客來購書。

《一攀就上手》

2013年10月出版的《一攀就上手!基礎攀岩一次就學會》是我撰寫的第一本攀岩工具書,從基本知識到技巧、裝備添購與下撤。希望藉由此書帶領初學者系統化的進入攀岩的殿堂。在博客來購書。

《睡在懸崖上的人》

這本《睡在懸崖上的人》是我在 2012 年 7 月出版的書籍。副標很長「從博士生到在大垃圾箱撿拾過期食物,我不是墜落,我是攀上了夢想的高峰」,不過它倒是挺誠實地告訴讀者,這本書究竟要說些什麼。本書影片。在博客來購買本書。簡體中文版