因為和學校合作攀岩課程的緣故,做了一份課綱。覺得也許會對一些讀者有幫助,所以就放上來自己的網站上了。很抱歉偷個懶沒有完全中文化。有些部份也許也寫得頗為簡略。此外,課程元素的系統技術部份,基本上也會是小Po新版的《傳統攀登》的大綱。
【Course Goals|課程目標】
※※ Become a self-sufficient climber and know how to progress in climbing ※※
※※ 成為獨立攀岩者,了解如何在攀岩路上進展 ※※
1. Know how to manage risks in different climbing scenarios | 不同攀岩情況的風險管理
2. Know how to set up a plan to progress in climbing | 設定攀岩進展的訓練計畫
3. Be able to take a beginner or a less-experienced climber on a self-researched outing | 自我設定攀岩計畫,能帶領經驗較少的攀岩者
4. Understand the climbing areas and ethics | 理解攀登區域和倫理
【Course Components|課程元素】
1. Movements and Body Training | 動作以及身體訓練
2. Technical Skills | 系統技術
3. Mental Aspects | 心理訓練
1. Movements and Body Training
- Prepare the body – injury prevention, proper warm-up, mobility drills, strength training
- Climbing movement drills
- Face climbing holds and body positions
- Crack climbing techniques
2. Technical Skills
◎ Basic rope management – coil, stack, rope bag
◎ Basic knots
◎ What is top-rope and how to belay and lower a top-rope climber
- Ground anchor discussion
- Methods to add friction
- Understand different belay devices
- How to close a top-rope system
◎ Cleaning a top-rope anchor
- Lower
- Rappel
- Rappel device extension
- The third hand
- Firefighter belay
- Close a rappel system
◎ Protections
- Natural pros – how to find them and use them
- Removable pros
- Fixed pros
◎ Anchor
- What is anchor?
- Different types of anchor? (Requirements and applications)
- How to build a good anchor
- Different ways to connect pros to build an anchor
- Special case considerations
◎ Set up a top rope via hiking to the top
- Understand the fall line
- Location of the master point
- Protect ourselves from the edge
- Should we pad the lip? And how?
- Do we need directionals? Why?
◎ Lead
- Understand leader’s fall (trajectory and impact)
- How to clip the rope into pieces
- Relative positions of body and rope
- The role of the first piece of pro
- Why and when do we extend pieces
- Belay a leader
- Understand how a leader’s fall affects the climbing system
- Proper belay stance
- Smooth rope handling
- Dynamic catch
- Different belay devices
- Belay a follower from the top
- Different belay devices with special concerns
- Guide mode versus Re-direct
- Concerns on lowering
- Anchor location selection – do we need to extend it?
- Pre-configure lowering
- Protect the follower – think about the follower’s different fall trajectory
- Preparation and in route gear strategy – racking, gear inventory, anticipation
◎ Multi-pitching (2-person team)
- Be a competent follower
- Multi-pitching procedure and communication
- Rope management and efficient transition
- When to break down pitches? Concerns?
- Manage approach and descent – protect less than 5th class terrain
- How to select a multi-pitch climb and have a plan
- How to read a guidebook and a topo map?
- What to bring? Do we need another rope for rappel?
- Time management
- Sun exposure and other weather concerns
- What if we need to bail?
◎ Advanced Multi-pitching
- Get ready physically and mentally to climb longer routes – Grade III & IV
- How to climb in a 3-person team – caterpillar, parallel, end roping?
- Rope management as a 3-person team
- Transitions – examples: caterpillar to parallel, parallel to lower, caterpillar to rappel etc
- Avoid factor 2 – clip the anchor as the first piece? Fixed point belay? Other ways?
◎ Vertical Rescue
- Basic concept – load transfer
- Knots and hitches (MMO, PMMO etc)
- Belay escape
- Counterbalance Rappel
- Tandem Rappel
- Rope Ascension
- Hauling (different mechanical advantage)
- Knot Passing
- Scenarios – rescue a leader, rescue a follower etc
◎ Big Wall System
- Aid climbing
- Basics – gear, rating, efficiency and rhythm, standard procedure
- Lead less than vertical terrain
- Lead overhanging terrain
- Safely set up a fixed line
- Bounce test
- Top-stepping
- Lead a tension traverse and a pendulum
- Pro management – make sure the follower can clean all pros
- Other gear – pitons, hooks, cam hooks etc
- Ethics – clean aid as much as possible, soft rock
- Following
- Gear intro and set up
- Ascend a rope, less than vertical
- Ascend a rope, overhanging
- Clean a traverse and overhanging terrain – re-aid or pass the jumar?
- Clean a pendulum
- Hauling
- Pack and set up a haul bag (knots, device, docking line etc)
- How to haul
- Tie off a haul bag at the belay
- Rappel with a haul bag
- Misc
- Anchor and rope management
- Communication
- Bathroom on the wall
- Sleeping on the wall
- Strategies
3. Mental Aspects
- Proper breathing techniques
- Mindfulness with injury prevention
- Visualization practice
- Fear management (learn how to distinguish rear danger versus perceived danger)
- Falling practice
- Risk assessment (learn how to read and learn from accident reports)
- Nature connections, LNT, and other ethics