攀岩課程

以下列出小Po教授的攀岩課程
◎◎你也可以根據自己的需求,訂製課程,比如說攀岩初體驗,多繩距路線,裂隙攀岩,運動攀登等◎◎

上課地點會在拉斯維加斯城外的Keyhole Canyon以及Red Rock Canyon

攀岩課程一覽表:
【Basic Rock;基礎攀岩課程】一天
【Basic Trad Climbing;基礎傳攀課程】三到五天
【Multi-Pitch Climbing I;基礎多繩距課程】三天
【Multi-Pitch Climbing II;進階多繩距課程】依需求
【Big Wall Climbing;大牆攀登】四天
【Vertical Self Rescue;垂直環境自我救援】三天

LittlePo_JT! 108

LittlePo_JT! 46

LittlePo_JT! 73

【Basic Rock;基礎攀岩課程】
對象:初學者
目標:Top Rope環境的攀爬,確保,與下撤
內容:攀岩裝備,基礎繩結,攀爬指令,確保上攀者,繩索管理,下撤

Checklist:
Basics

  • Knots (figure 8, overhand, friction hitches etc)
  • Personal climbing gear (harness, shoes, helmets)
  • Basic rope management (flake, coil, rope bag)
  • Safety check
  • Climbing commands

Top Rope Climbing

  • What is top rope climbing
  • How to belay a top rope climber from the ground
  • How to close a top rope system
  • How to lower a climber and how to be lowered
  • How to clean an anchor
    • From top rope to lower
    • From top rope to rappel (please see rappel below)

Rappel

  • What is rappel
  • How to set up a rappel
    • Rappel device extension
    • The third hand
    • Firefighter belay
    • Close a rappel system

LittlePo_JT! 52

LittlePo_JT! 58

LittlePo_JT! 63

【Basic Trad Climbing;基礎傳攀課程】
對象:基礎攀岩課程結業者
目標:能成功模擬先鋒兩條以上的傳統單段路線
內容:

• 認識傳攀保護裝備

保護裝備即為在攀登過程中,置放在路線上的岩隙岩洞等恰當的天然特徵中,用來保護攀登者安全的器材。介紹這些裝備的運作原則、保養方式、購買建議、以及何時應該淘汰岩楔。

• 尋找以及架設保護支點

使用、置放良好的保護支點,是傳攀者需要具備的最基礎的技能。保護支點,處在安全系統中的前線位置,如果放得好、品質佳,在墜落的時候,才會固守在岩壁上,制動墜勢。建立固定點時,常以輔繩、扁帶等攀岩軟器材連接數個支點,以供確保、垂降等用途,所以保護支點的好壞和固定點的好壞息息相關。如何判斷保護支點的品質,怎麼運用攀岩軟器材和天然物來做支點,在裂隙中置放岩楔的原則,以及如何取出岩楔等。

• 架設固定點

固定點是攀登安全系統中的重要組成份子。以功能性來區分,固定點有上方確保固定點(Top Rope Anchors),垂降固定點(Rappel Anchors),以及多繩距確保固定點(Multi-pitch Anchors)。架設固定點的時候,我們必須了解架設該固定點的理由,才能架設一個「夠好」的固定點。講述架設固定點的依循原則,介紹不同連接保護支點的方式來架設固定點,同時提供不同情況下架設固定點的例子與討論。

• 先鋒理論

繩隊攀登中,攀登者扮演的角色有先鋒者和跟攀者。先鋒者需要從事的任務包含先鋒、建立固定點、確保跟攀者。跟攀者則需要確保先鋒者,清除路線上的保護等。這一章討論先鋒者的任務,包括先鋒過程中置放支點、架設固定點的考量,以及確保跟攀者的方式等。介紹先鋒理論以及許多和安全系統相關的考量。

Checklist:
Protections (Pro)

  • Natural Pro, how to find them and use them
  • Removable Gear Pro
    • Introduction to protection gear
    • Pro placement
  • Fixed Gear – bolts, pins, fixed pieces

Anchors

  • What is anchor?
  • Different types of anchors (requirements and applications)
  • How to build a good anchor (SERENA)
  • Different ways to connect pros to build a SERENA anchor
  • Hike up and set up a top rope anchor (how to protect ourselves and set up a good top rope anchor; are directional pieces needed)
  • Set up a rappel anchor
  • Practice set up a multi-pitch anchor

Leading

  • Understand falls (trajectory and impact)
  • How to clip the rope into pieces
  • Be mindful of the relative positions of body and rope
  • The role of the first piece of pro
  • Why and when do we extend pieces
  • Protect your follower, yes, your follower might fall differently than you
  • How to belay your follower from the top
  • Prepare for a climb (racking, strategy, anticipation)
  • How to belay a leader (where to stand; smooth rope feeding; soft catches)

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IMG_20180404_134439112_HDR

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【Multi-Pitch Climbing I;基礎多繩距課程】
對象:基礎傳攀課程結業者
目標:成為繩隊中稱職的一員,攀爬2~4段的多繩距路線
內容:多繩距攀登的準備、過程、攀登者的任務、溝通

【Multi-Pitch Climbing II;進階多繩距課程】
對象:基礎多繩距課程結業者
目標:增進繩隊效率,攀爬4~8段的多繩距路線
內容:繩隊效率,風險管理等,依學生需求和經驗目標性加強

Checklist:
Multi-pitch Climbing

  • How to select a multi-pitch climb and have a plan
  • How to read a climbing route topo
  • Communication
  • Rope management and transitions (2 person team & 3 person team)
  • When to set up an anchor? Concerns?
  • Multi-pitch anchors revisited (think for your leader; should we clip the anchor for the first pro? Direction of pull etc)
  • Protect approach and descent
  • Improve your efficiency

P1370969

P1370845

【Big Wall Climbing;大牆攀登】
對象:基礎多繩距課程結業者
目標:攀爬Grade V,C2大牆路線的系統知識
內容:人工攀登,橫渡,拖拉,繩索系統管理,策略等
參考文章:
什麼是大牆攀登
大牆攀登的學習之路
淺談彈跳測試Bounce Test
參考影片
※※影片是課程的濃縮紀錄,僅供參考,非經訓練請勿自行模仿操作※※

Checklist:
Big Wall Climbing
Aid climbing

  • Aid climb basics (gear, rating, procedure etc)
  • Lead less than vertical terrain
  • Lead overhanging terrain
  • Setting up fix line
  • Bounce test
  • Top-stepping
  • Lead a pendulum

Following

  • Gear intro and set up
  • Ascend a rope, less than vertical
  • Ascend a rope, overhanging
  • Clean a traverse and overhanging terrain
  • Clean a pendulum

Hauling

  • Attach the haul bag to the haul line (knots, device etc)
  • How to haul
  • How to tie off a haul bag at belay
  • How to rappel with a haul bag

Anchor and rope management
Communication (commands)
Misc

  • Sleeping and Pooping on the wall
  • Route selection and retreat plan
  • Strategy (pre-fix or not? etc)
  • What to bring and what not to bring?
  • How to pack?
  • Design a training plan
  • Emergency plan

【Vertical Self Rescue;垂直環境自我救援】
對象:基礎多繩距課程結業者
目標:垂直環境意外發生時的自救與抵達救援容易接近的地點。
內容:系統脫出,下降,上升,拖曳,過繩結等。
參考影片
※※影片是課程的濃縮紀錄,僅供參考,非經訓練請勿自行模仿操作※※

Checklist:

  • Basic knots and hitches (MMO and friction hitches)
  • Belay Escape
  • Counterbalance Rappel
  • Tandem Rappel
  • Rope Ascension
  • Hauling (different mechanical advantage)
  • Knot Passing
  • Scenarios

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